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Check out this Amazing Stud Finder! How to find a stud in the wall. How would you like to be able to find a stud in a plaster wall / drywall wall, easily and every time without an expensive stud finder? Let’s look at how to find a wall stud using three conventional methods then l’ll explain my foolproof method of how to find a stud in the wall without a stud finder. The best method l think, as described in the video is Method 1.
Quick link to what l use to find Wall Studs behind Drywall:
Rare Earth Magnets (neodymium) with Protective Non Scratch Coating: These magnets are incredibly strong and are perfect for detecting nails in timber. Check out the link to purchase the product.
Please Note that cheaper, thinner rare earth magnets are extremely brittle and are prone to shattering when dropped.
METHOD 1. THE MOST FOOL PROOF METHOD OUT THERE!!
Get yourself a magnet. That’s it!! Drywall is attached to studs using metal fasteners. The magnet picks up on these metal fasteners giving you the exact position of the stud!! Now that is amazing!
The best magnets to use are called ‘Rare Earth Magnets, otherwise known as Neodymium Magnets’. You can find these in old computer hard drives that you see on peoples nature strips waiting to be picked up on hard rubbish day or you can get yourself one from any electrical supplies store for around ten to 20 dollars depending on the strength and quality. The one that l have is about 25mm (one inch) in diameter and about 4mm (a bit over one eighth of an inch) thick.
Knock on the wall with your hand in a number of spots until the hollow sound becomes solid. Where the sound is solid there is probably a stub or a least a solid object. This method isn’t bad but there is a definite room for error, as you can’t exactly pinpoint the stud. You get the general area but it’s a bit hit and miss and at other times it can be hard trying to differentiate the difference between a hollow and a solid sound. It is free though so that’s good!
You can use a store bought stud finder. Once again these are notoriously unreliable unless you buy a very expensive model.
Look on your wall for a power point (outlet box). The bracket that holds the power point (outlet box) in place is attached to the side of a stud. What you need to do is remove the power point and have a look inside the hole to find out what side the stud is. From there you can measure the stud intervals which are usually 16 inches on centre (on centre means from the middle of one stud to the middle of the next stud) if you are in America or 450mm on centre for load bearing walls and 600mm on centre for non load bearing in countries like Australia. Obviously these measurements can change from country to country depending on the Building Code for that Country or State but those measurements l gave are a pretty good indication.
So there you have it. Get yourself a magnet and happy stud hunting.
If you find yourself building or renovating your home from scratch, or removed some plasterboard to do some work, take a photo of the stud wall prior to the drywall or plasterboard going up. This will let you know where the studs are at a later date when you need to find one.
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PS. HERE’S THE LINK TO VIDEO 6
All Videos produced by shaneconlan1′s YouTube Channel are provided for informational purposes only.
All the content provided is for general guidance only. Because tools, products, materials, equipment, techniques, building codes and local regulations are constantly changing, shaneconlan1 cannot, and does not assume any responsibility or liability for the accuracy of the information contained therein. Further, shaneconlan1 (Shane Conlan) will not accept any claim for liability related to, but not limited to, omissions, errors, injury, damage or the outcome of any project. It is the responsibility of the viewer to ensure compliance with all applicable laws, rules, codes and regulations for a project. The viewer must always take proper safety precautions and exercise caution when taking on any project. If there are any questions or doubt in regards to the element of a project, please consult with a licensed professional.
Lots of projects call for some kind of edge banding. The edge banding might be thin pieces you’re applying to European style cabinet cases, slightly larger pieces you’re applying to the edge of a shelf to make it more rigid, or exceptionally thick pieces being added to a bar or table edge. All of these instances call for clamping strategies that allow you to successfully pull the edge band tight, and this can be a challenge. Here are gluing and clamping wood solutions for a variety of edge band applications, some of which include use of an edge clamp, while others use bar clamps.
DIFFERENT SOLUTIONS FOR DIFFERENT APPLICATIONS
Thin edge banding that’s being used on a Euro style cabinet has much different clamping requirements than heavier edge banding that’s being used on a table or bar top. Add to the mix the clamping problem of spanning an especially wide board that you’re edge banding, or a curved edge. These applications really allow an edge clamp to shine, and show how it’s the right tool for the job. Regardless of the edge banding or edge clamp application you’re up against, there’s a solution that will help you make your woodworking project come out great.
ONCE THE BANDING IS ON
Now that you’ve seen some great ways to get edge banding onto your project parts, you need to know the next step. Edge banding is typically applied over size, and trimmed later. That means that, once the glue is dry, you need to know how trim edge banding.
For more information about Bessey clamps visit http://www.besseytools.com or call (800) 828-1004.
Learn more: http://bit.ly/2kqpyoC