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The Beta RR250 and RR300 are awesome two stroke enduro bikes giving KTM a good run for their money. Here’s a bunch of minor issues I’ve found over the past six months and common mods.
BETA RR250 &RR300 KNOWN ISSUES
- For most the carby is set up too rich, consult Beta’s excellent jetting chart to lean it out if needed after a run in ride.
- Float level is a tad too high at 6.5mm (measured from body to floats, with the tang just resting) – extend it out to 7.5-8mm.
- The seat base can rub on the positive lead to the battery, zip tie a bit of rubber or plastic for protection.
- Frame protectors don’t extend high enough, boots can rub paint off the frame – cut some rubber or plastic & zip tie.
- Bigger-sized boots tend to rub the decals off the side panels.
- A few report the two engine breather hoses can come off, just zip tie them tight.
- Wiring behind headlight can rub on the head stem – just zip tie out of the way.
- Side stand end is too small and sinks in soft ground, screw on a bit of plastic or weld an alloy plate on.
- A few models had the wrong sized rubber join between the pipe and muffler – just zip tie it tight, or get the right sized one.
- Swingarm/mudflap edges rub on swingarm, epoxy small rub blocks to areas, or trim the flap.
- Six cases internationally of starters working intermittently, it’s loose connection in the wiring loom (info here).
BETA RR250 &RR300 SUSPENSION
From 2015 the standard Sachs suspension is working well for everyday riders although some still criticize it – there is an excellent setup guide here that is likely to fix any “problems” you think you have. The Marzocchis on the race versions are great if you are a fast experienced rider or racing. I had my Sachs set up for my weight by a suspension tuner, they put the rear shock on a dyno and said it’s one of the best stock shocks they’ve seen and could only make minor improvements on the valving. They said the forks were good but did get more of a plush feel on the initial stroke with a revalve.
BETA RR300 COMMON MODS ETC
- Shorten & reroute radiator overflow tube to stop short of the skidplate (can then see if bike’s overheating).
- Like KTMs, the outer fork guard bolts can be hit by rocks, replace with dome head allen type bolts if a concern.
- Seal up steering lock, or don’t get water near it (can dribble down & rust lower steering bearing).
- Some with smaller boots report hitting false neutrals with the long gear shift (use a shorter CRF250R 2004 to 2008 lever).
- If your leg moves the fuel tap lever when riding then hacksaw the extended part off.
- Trim the fuel petcock lever if your leg moves it, or reverse fuel tap (e.g. lever pointing inwards) & use a longer hose.
- Rear suspension increased by 7mm using wish bone from 2012 450RR Cross Country model (part no. 020-331300-000).
- Remove inner teeth of brake pedal, might punch a hole through the clutch cover in a stack.
- You can add a mapping switch for more tuning options if you didn’t buy the Racing version.
- Better full lock turns – remove lock nuts an screw bolts in further, trim radiator guards so they don’t hit the forks.
- The Beta engine is already superb but some feel modding the power valve spring can improve it even further.
- Clutch is just a tad heavier than the KTMs, consider Midwest Clever Levers or the superb Clake One Light clutch if you are cashed up.
- Some dislike the stock kill switch and get the KTM-style one.
- Consider a radiator fan &/or bigger radiators if doing slow technical terrain in warmer climates.
- The Beta is bit smaller and lower than the KTM, if you are tall consider risers and Fastway pegs which are further back and down.
- For slower technical riding many find an extra tooth or three on the rear sprocket works wonders.
- Into wheelies? Unlike the KTM rear fender the Beta one will snap if you flip it so consider two small cuts either side to allow flexing.
- One rider reported kickstarter touching underside of fuel tank, trim the tip if this is happening.
- Reroute top carburetor breather tubes in to the airbox
- To get more adjustment on rear shock preload, loosen both carburetor clamps then lever the air boot away from rear spring for more clearance
- On 2016 oil injection models, cable tie the oil injection tube where it fits over the brass fitting just before the reed block (see this post).
CHASING A LIGHTER CLUTCH FOR THE RR300?
Nothing wrong with the standard clutch although it is just a tad heavier than the Katos. Here are three options if you do lots of technical riding and clutch slipping:
- Budget option is a Midwest clutch lever, using extra leverage and a longer pull
- Fit a larger master cylinder from an earlier Beta Factory model (details here)
- For an incredibly light clutch, get the Clake ONE light clutch if you are cashed up..
For an excellent set of tips for racing on the Betas visit this thread: http://www.betarider.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=797