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#Door_Installation. #How_to_Install_the_Sliding_Closet_Door. #DIY_CAM
#Sliding_closet_doors, also known as #bypass_doors, are #doors that slide behind one another, using a minimal amount of room space. Follow these steps to install sliding closet doors in any room of your house.
Prepare your #doors for hanging. If they are unfinished, then you should paint or stain them before you install them.
Measure the opening for your #closet_doors. Determine horizontal and vertical measurements, as well as the width and height of each old #closet_door.
Remove existing #closet_doors, if needed. If you have #sliding_doors in place currently, lift each door out of the bottom track first. Then, lower the bottom of each #door down onto the floor next to the track. Doing this will pull the door from the top track. Set the old doors aside.
Remove old tracks, hinges or screws using an electric drill with a screwdriver bit. Use putty to patch up any holes as needed. Paint over any large patches of putty that won’t be covered by the new #sliding_doors.
Align the old tracks with the new ones to find the appropriate length for the new tracks. Cut the new tracks to fit the closet opening using a hacksaw.
Install new tracks on the top side of the closet opening using your electric drill.
The tracks might have pre-made holes for screwing the brackets into the frame of your closet. If not, create the holes with your drill and install the screws that came with your #doors.
Make sure that the screws are flush with the track so that they don’t stick out and interfere with the doors’ movements. At the same time, don’t over-tighten them because you may warp the track.
Hang the #doors on the top bracket starting with the #rear_door. The #doors have rollers at the top that will fit into the top bracket.
Turn the front of each door so that it’s facing you when you lift it.
Lift the #door and place it in the top track, starting with the back part. Once the back of the door is in place, the front will fit into the track as well. Repeat this process with the second #door.
Allow the #doors to hang straight down from the top bracket. Mark where the bottom track needs to be installed.
Remove the #doors from the top bracket.
Install the bottom track using the previously marked measurements.
Hang the #doors in the top track again, using the same procedure. The bottom of the doors will slide into place if all of your measurements are correct.
0:17 – measurements;
0:50 – setting;
1:26 – #installing_a_door.
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This channel is created for those who love life, who love to create with their own hands for independent, purposeful and creative people. The content of the channel will consist of videos, which will show you how to do various things with their hands. And the video will touch completely different areas of activity, the main condition – “#do_it_yourself”.
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In this video Phillip Green shows us how to install a return vent using Thermo-Pan. This type of installation is particularly useful when installing a return vent in an older home because it will allow you to utilize the existing construction in your home.
Today we are going to go through the installation of the return air supply for this furnace. The return air comes in the bottom here where the blower cavity is. And then, this is a gas furnace so it heats it with the heating exchanger and then goes up through the air conditioner coil and out through the supply duct. But in order to get the return air in and pull it from the parts of the house that we need it to we are going to have to duct that. It doesn’t have to be as extensive as the supply duct work, just because it is not hot air going through. It is just an area to pull air from. But if you pull it all right here by the furnace, first of all it’s going to be really noisy and second of all the system is not going to balance very well. It will always be pulling more air supply to the room that it’s in rather than from all the ends of the house, bedrooms and everywhere. So what we’re going to do is come behind the furnace, there is a filter you can see there, and it goes through into this utility room and we’re going to kind of duct the channel that the air can flow through in order to come straight in through that filter and into the bottom of that furnace. The channel that we are going to choose to take is right here. We have it framed out just a little bit. And we are going to add some framing to it to get some support. It comes through right here, you can see there is some pipes in here and electrical. On a return that’s not a problem, but for supply you can’t have wires and pipes and things going through the line. So we have framed out through this bay right behind the furnace that going to go up into the floor base. And you see there is TGI’s running right here parallel. It comes out here, but we need it to go through about this one. This bay, over into the hallway upstairs. And to do that we are going to use this material called Thermo-pan. Thermo-pans great, light-weight, basically cardboard with metalized sheeting on the outside. It has an R value of R-3, so it does give you a little bit of insulation value. And we’re basically going to build the bay with Thermo-pan and some adhesives and some staples and stuff.
Now we have a base piece to attach to, what I’m going to do is take these 2″x8″s/2″x10″s whatever they are, and add them in here so that they are level and come out the same distance as our framing. Because if I span this 32 inch space with this Thermo-pan, the vacuum pressure is going to suck it in and it will close down the bay. So I need something to hold it out a little bit right here and all the way up through the wall. Kind of a good make-shift bay, it lets the pipes go through just fine, lets the electrical go through, but it’ll still support that Thermo-pan from pulling in. To do that I’m going to use a staple-gun just because it’s a little bit faster. You can also use panning nails, some small nail with a big head so that it holds the Thermo-pan on. To do this you need to kind of have an angle on a little bit, because otherwise this staple-gun will punch right through. That’s a nice bay right there. Okay, for this piece we are going to angle in and then go up into the base. But I have a little gap here that I want to fill as well as over here. So I’m going to pan off on the inside of it first, and then I’ll do the cover for the outside. Also to do the cover we kind of need something to attach to here and give another support in the middle. So we are going to use some 2″x4″s. We got the Thermo-pan connectors, and we are just going to slip this one on. This will give us a good seal without having to pookie it, without having to use duct sealant. This one we are going to have to something like that with, just to get a better connection on it. Right now I’m going to put a little bit of Hardcast 550 duct sealant on the joints of some of this. So that not only it seals it off a little bit better, but it will also keep it together. Right now our return air is sealed up basically to this point right here. We got to block this off a little bit on the inside so it doesn’t escape, but it’s all in this bay. This bay has been blocked here, so what we need to do now is block this one so that the air can travel through these holes into this bay.
Then we are going to travel down this bay into the hallway and hit one return air and then jump bays and hit the one upstairs.