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In this video I explain how I install the gunnels for my cedar strip canoe. In my previous video I showed how to make them: https://goo.gl/9Y2oFN
Materials & Supplies:
Ark Composites Resin and Slow Hardener
Premarked cups with the ratios for mixing the epoxy.
Lots of clamps
1. The first thing I do is cut the sheer line about a ¼” over what it ends up being. I do this by putting the molds back into the boat one by one at the place they were when I built the hull and marking where they cut off. Then I clamp a long flexible stick onto the sheerline to find the curve and draw the line on with a pencil. I cut about a ¼” above that line with a jigsaw.
2. Dry fit an inner gunnel on to mark where you’ll be mounting it with glue, mark where to taper and cut the ends so that the inner gunnel will fit exactly. I end up dry fitting a couple times taking it on and off as I’m gutting it to length to make sure it’s ready to fit exactly perfect when gluing. I also predrill holes on every other scupper when I’m dry fitting so I can feed screws in easily when I’m gluing.
3. Apply the epoxy/cotton fiber glue to the scuppers and glue it back on where you marked from before (https://goo.gl/9Y2oFN – this video has more information about epoxy/cotton fiber glue). Having the predrilled holes makes it much easier to clamp on exactly where you want it.
4. Repeat the process with the other inner gunnel
5. Install the decks – make a template with cardboard, then trace and cut the template onto a piece of wood. I spent a lot of time shaping the decks to fit as precisely as possible. Then I use the epoxy/cotton fiber glue to to glue them on at the inner gunnels. I put a couple 2” screws into the deck to add additional strength.
6. Install the outer gunnels in the same way the inner gunnels were installed. I cut and taper the ends about an inch from the end of the actual boat. The outer gunnels cover the screw holes from the innner gunnels. I predrill the holes on the scuppers that didn’t already have screws from the inner gunnels. I counter sink these and later will fill them with dowel plugs.
7. Plane hull edges down and sand everything to an equal plane.
8. I spent a lot of time sanding everything to 120 grit and giving all the sharp edges a light sanding.
Don’t be as dumb as me:) it’s important to wear gloves when working with epoxy. You’ll probably notice I take some unnecessary risks when I build and I don’t have a good excuse. It’ll probably end up paying for it someday…
People use a lot of different variations for measurements and processes. Depending on your tools and how you’ll be using your canoe you will find methods that you’re comfortable with.
I clamp slightly less tight with epoxy glue than I do with wood glue. You don’t want to squeeze all the glue out of the joint. I read somewhere to clamp with the same pressure as “a firm handshake”
Here are a couple good resources to learn more about Cedar Strip Canoe Building:
https://www.amazon.com/Canoecraft-Illustrated-Guide-Woodstrip-Construction/dp/1552093425 – “Canoecraft” is the cedar strip canoe building bible. Buy it and read the whole book before you start building.
http://forum.woodenboat.com/ – This site is actually really helpful. Usually if I type a specific boat building question into google a previous forum post from the Woodenboat Forum is near the top. You can also post your own questions.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-A-Cedar-Strip-Canoe/ – This guy (Jim Clem) made a very detailed step-by-step guide to cedar strip canoe building. There are a lot of helpful process explanations for some of the trickier parts of building. I used his blog a lot while building my first canoe.
Feel free to comment on this video if you have any questions! Thanks for watching!
I get my canoe building materials from Noah’s Marine Supply (http://www.noahsmarine.com/index.asp)
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