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Water Based Wood Stains have all the advantages of oil-based stains: they spread easily, can be repaired, blend effortlessly and have plenty of open time. The thicker formula allows controlled penetration, which will reduce blotching on soft wood. Read on for the video transcript, instructions for how to best use GF Wood Stains and a list of useful links.
ABOUT GF WOOD STAINS
The great thing about GF water-based stains is that it is not necessary to pre-wet the wood. Pre-stain conditioner is also not needed. GF’s water-based wood stains are formulated to condition most wood species. Water-based finishes need a smoother surface than oil based finishes but be careful not to over sand.
Water-based stains dry faster than oil so it is critical to plan your project section by section. Always have Extender on hand to use if humidity is low, temperature is high, or you are working on a large project. Ideal conditions are seventy degrees fahrenheit and seventy percent relative humidity.
On unfinished wood, start with a medium sand paper then progress to finer grades. The grain in the wood will determine your prep sanding schedule.
-Closed Grain Woods such as Cherry, Pine, Maple, Birch and Alder should be sanded with 150 then 180 grit sandpaper.
-Open Grain Woods such as Oak, Ash, Mahogany and Parawood should be sanded with 180 then 220 grit sandpaper.
Use a liberal amount of stain. The product is thick so it’s not going to run off, making it is easier to control. Use enough stain so that you can actually write your initials in it.
Next, come back and wipe off the excess with blue shop towels.
Take a bristle brush and come back in to back brush it. Feather it out using the brush to even out anything that you missed with the towels.
Allow your first coat to dry 2 – 4 hours. If it is rainy, humid or cold let it dry overnight.
After the first layer of topcoat has dried, run your hand over the surface. It will feel fuzzy because water-based stains raise the moisture content of the wood. Don’t worry, grain raise is normal.
Using a 220 flexible sanding pad, break the edge so it’s not too coarse. Be careful not to go too heavy across the corners because you don’t want to cut off any color.
The finish is dry when it produces a white powder and is smooth to the touch.
Apply three to four layers of topcoat. Let each coat dry 2 – 4 hours, sanding between coats with a 220 sanding pad.
Thin GF water based semi-gel stains with 10-15% extender or water at point of use only. Decant what you need into a separate container and use immediately. If thinned water based semi-gel stains are stored, they will separate and lose the semi-gel consistency.
GF Enduro RTM stains are a thinner formula designed for professional spray applications.
GENERAL FINISHES PRODUCT LINKS:
Chalk Style Paint → http://bit.ly/1X0R5OO
Milk Paint → http://bit.ly/1g8FB8G
Glaze Effects → http://bit.ly/1Jig7kr
Pearl Effects → http://bit.ly/1Ko0fhI
Oil Based Gel Stains → http://bit.ly/1gRtXzc
High Performance Topcoat → http://bit.ly/1vQEYQE
Flat Out Flat Topcoat → http://bit.ly/1IlKDci
WHERE TO BUY GF PRODUCTS:
GF DESIGN CENTER → http://designs.generalfinishes.com/
BLOG → https://generalfinishes.com/blog
YOUTUBE → https://www.youtube.com/GeneralFinishes
FACEBOOK → https://www.facebook.com/generalfinishes
TWITTER → https://twitter.com/generalfinishes
INSTAGRAM → https://instagram.com/generalfinishes
PINTEREST → https://www.pinterest.com/generalfinishes
GOOGLE+ → https://plus.google.com/+generalfinishes
HOUZZ → http://www.houzz.com/pro/generalfinishes
This video is ideal for someone new to binding or who may be looking to switch binding methods. Each method involves 3 basic steps – so let’s dive right in with the most popular choice.
Plastic coil binding uses a continuous spring-like binding element and comes in the widest assortment of color choices.
First step, punch your inside pages and covers.
Second step, twist the coil into the first 5 or so hole, then finish by hand or with a coil inserter machine.
Last step: finish by crimping the coil ends. Using coil pliers make sure the red dot faces up toward the ceiling. Place them at the last ring passing through the book and squeeze the pliers tight — then repeat for the other side to keep the coil from spinning out of the book and you’re done.
Plastic comb is one of the few types that allows pages to be removed or inserted without destroying the binding element.
Step 1 — punch the inside pages and the covers.
Step 2 — place a comb in the comb spreader & pull the handle to open the teeth. Thread the pages, cover first onto the comb teeth.
Step 3 — release the lever to allow the comb to close and remove your booklet.
Wire binding, sometimes called double loop or twin loop uses a color coated wire that is crimped closed.
First step — punch the pages and covers — are you noticing a pattern here?
2nd step — use the machine’s wire hanger to hold the wire in place, then thread — back page 1st, followed by the front cover, and lastly the back cover flipped around. This allows the seam to be hidden.
Last step — finish by crimping the open wire loops using a wire closer. This squeezes the wire into a closed, round configuration. Then flip the back cover over and you’re done.
Wire comb or Spiral-O Wire is designed to offer some binding type flexibility when used with a plastic comb punch pattern. It uses the same rectangular holes and only requires a wire closer machine to get two binding methods in one.
Step 1 — punch the inside pages and the covers.
Step 2 — thread the narrow wire loop teeth into the holes, back page first, inside pages, front cover, then the back cover flipped over.
Step 3 — crimp it closed in a wire closer – and then flip the back cover over.
Velo binding is often used on legal documents and uses two plastic strips sealed together with heat.
Step one? You guessed it – punch the pages and covers.
Step two — locate the guide pin hole in the back velo strip and line it up in the machine’s recessed channel. Jog & place your sheets on top. Then thread the front strip prongs all the way down.
Finish by placing the pressure bar on top of the book. It squeezes the binding strips together, then seals the prongs with a hot knife and release when it’s done.
Tape binding uses a hot glue –coated fabric strip to hold the pages together without punching.
Step 1 — insert the tape strip into the machine.
Step 2- jog your book and place it in the machine.
Step 3 — press the start button to allow the glue to melt and seal the binding edge. The book should have some time to sit untouched to cool and harden the glue.
Binding screw posts are inserted into drilled or punched holes like a 3-ring binder type.
First step, insert the rear barrel post with the threads inside it into the back of one hole.
Second step- thread the cap screw portion from the top. Repeat for all remaining holes.
Last step — Finish by securing the screws tight with a screw driver.
To learn more and explore some of the finer details you can download the Find-A-bind quick reference guide from our website http://www.cfsbinds.com