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Part one: Can a saw blade made out paper cut through a sheet paper? It can if it’s spinning fast enough. Circles of paper are mounted onto a Dremel type tool and then are tested to see if they can cut paper, cardboard foam cups, even thin strips of wood. However, don’t look to replace your steel saw blades with these anytime soon, these will disintegrate after a few uses, after all, they are just paper. The demonstration relies on the concept referred to as “centrifugal force”. I would point out that this is a fictitious force. The behavior that it describes is real enough, however the words defining it are incorrect. the term “force” used with the word centrifugal is misleading and wrong, there is no force applied radially outwards. However, even though it is mislabeled, the term centrifugal force is used to describe the motion of the matter or an object moving radially outwards. This is what we observe here when the paper straightens out when spinning or the string on a grass trimmer becomes rigid as it spins and can be seen in all sorts of other examples and applications all well. It can be as simple as soaking a towel with water and spinning it over your head. The water drops move away from the towel outwards from the center of rotation ( centrifugal force). We can actually see similar results in the paint trails in the pictures at the endo of my spin art video.
My preference would be to call it a centrifugal behavior. What we are seeing is a cause and effect. The centripetal force which causes the object to curve off of a straight is applied inwards towards the center of rotation. This inward force pulls against the inertia of the object and the effect or result is an outward movement even though there is no outward force.
One further note on safety: I recognize that using the table saw without the guard down is dangerous, it was left up for visual purposes of making the video. My standard procedure is normally to use all safety measures available when using power tools. Also, as has been suggested, I would very strongly recommend that anyone attempting this experiment wear gloves as protection against paper cuts.
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PLEASE READ: I serged my seam on the inside of my pillow to keep it from fraying. You may also zig zag. Also, no need to clip your corners on this project
Check out my blog post about it! http://www.melaniekham.com/envelope-pillow-with-piping-tutorial/
Main fabric (mine is from Joann fabrics in the upholstery section – Nate Berkus
binding fabric – Kona Cotton 1/2 yard
6/32 cotton cording or something similar
rotary blade and mat
sewing machine and coordinating thread
16 inch pillow form
(1) 17 x 17 inch for front panel
(2) 17 x 12 for back panels
73 inches of bias binding – Add all four sides and add 5 inches.
14 inch pillow form
(1) 15 x 15 inch front panel
(2) 15 x 11
65 inches of bias binding – Add all four sizes and add 5 inches
20 inch Pillow form
(1) 21 x 21 inch fron panel
(2) 21 x 14 for back panels
89 inches of bias binding
Prewash and iron fabric
Cut out fabric pieces to specified size
Take the back 2 pieces to the ironing board and iron the longer (horizontal) edge over 1/4 and again 1/4 inch to prepare for sewing. (:52)
Sew down both seams that you just pressed with a coordinating thread about 1/8 away from the edge.(1:00)
Take our fabric for your binding and make straight edges. Mine was 1/2 yard. (1:09)
Take the selvedge edge of the fabric and fold it diagonally so that it lines up with the straight edge of our fabric (1:25)
-the diagonal fold is the bias. It gives the binding more give and stretch to get around the corners.
Fold the bias edge on top of itself 2 times keeping the folded edge lined up (1:45)
Turn fabric so that your folded bias edge is on the right had side and trim the fold to create a straight edge (2:12)
Flip that cut edge to the left side of the mat and using the ruler, make 3 cuts or however many you need to get appropriate bias binding size (2:20)
Trim all bias strips so that it is a straight rather than diagonal edge (3:00)
Join all bias binding strips with a bias join (3:14)
Fold the end of the bias strip about 3/4 inch and place your cording inside (4:01)
Fold the strip with the cording inside, matching up the raw edges and pin in place (4:08)
Using a zipper foot or cording foot, sew a stitch as close to the cording as possible using a thread that blends with your fabric, back stitch on both ends (4:12)
Attach the binding to the front square of the pillow pieces with pins very well.. (4:53)
Match up the raw edges and put small cuts in the cording tape to go around the corners. (4:57)
Trim end of the piping and place inside the fold from the beginning of the piping to conceal the end. (5:35)
Using the zipper foot, sew the pinned piping to the front panel of the pillow back stitching at beginning and end.. Go slow around the corners.(5:53)
Place front panel right side facing up and take the first back panel and lay the right side down (right sides together). The finished seam should be in the center of the pillow, raw edges should be matched up on the outside. Place 2nd back panel on top of the first, right side down with the seam toward the center and the raw edges matching on the outside edge. (6:56)
Pin in place (7:10)
Sewing all the pieces together with the zipper foot. Seam allowance should be between 1/2 and 5/8 inch. Remove pins as you go, and go slow around the corners. Back stitch at front and back as well as the openings. (7:21)
To make your pillow more washer friendly, serge or zig zag stitch your inside seam. No need to clip the corners.
You are done!
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