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To see similar machines, stop by http://products.arpac.com/viewitems/shrink-bundling-multipacking/horizontal-shrink-wrappers
The TS37 side seal horizontal shrink wrapper is one of the most versatile packaging machines on the market today. Capable of wrapping up to 80 packages per minute, the continuous motion TS37 film folding system eliminates the need for multiple forming heads with its adjustable film former. Unlike conventional film inverters, the TS37 film path ensures equal transfer of grouped products onto the film without skewing the product configuration. This is ideal for multipacks and irregular shaped products.
The machine features a crank-adjustable height trim seat unit, as well as dial-adjustable pouch length, which enables “on-the-fly” bag length changes without changing the flight spacing. All adjustments are made from the operator side of the machine and product changeovers can be completed quickly and easily.
• Heavy-duty rugged construction for high durability and around-the-clock operation
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• Horizontal / vertical cross seal
• Allen-Bradley® PanelView 600Plus operator interface with color touchscreen, message display and self-diagnostics
• Digital counters and scales for easy and repeatable product setup
• Guards and control box doors are electrically interlocked
• 6′ flighted infeed with safety torque limiter
• Adjustable film forming head
• Continuous motion seal head for smooth product transitions
• 8” seal bar opening
• Slide out film rack with needle wheel air evacuation assembly
• Missing product detection
• NEMA 12 main electrical cabinet and controls
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• Belted infeed
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• Pneumatic hole punch system
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I put together a shufflebot costume for halloween this year (LMFAO robot head guy)… I wanted to add to the costume since I’d be out and about and doing alot of shuffling – what better way than some LED shoes that light up when I step/dance.
This was my take on this. There are a bunch of ways to do it I’m sure, but this cost me about $11 total, and worked (still works) really well. I’ll add a parts list and some written instructions to this when I get a chance.
Note: I chose to put my battery on the tongue b/c that’s the only place it would fit. If you have shoes you want to cut up or maybe they have a big tongue near the top flap… you might be able to hide the wires better. Since this was for halloween, i didn’t need to hide the wires. It’s all your preference. Good luck!
1. Shoes – pick whatever, but make sure that the sides of the soles are flat enough and wide enough to apply the LED material to. The LED strips are just under .5″ wide.
2. Battery with connector – you can get these online or at Fry’s or Radio Shack or any electronics place. You need 9-12V with 2-3A to get it to work. There are likely some battery solutions out there that would let you hide the battery better. Seek and ye shall find!
3. LED’s – I like the RGB LEDs. You need to get the kind that are adhesive backed and flexible. I got mine from this site.
http://www.usledsupply.com/shop/led-rope-lights/rgb-full-color-strips/all-rgb-strips.html – get the kind with pre-soldered wire on at least one end.
If you want to use one color LED’s that’s fine too.. just poke around on the site.
I would measure my shoe to see how much LED material you need. I only went around the heel, but you could go around the entire shoe if you wanted.
They also make standard and high output. High output isn’t any brighter, there are just more LEDs. One of my shoes was high, one was standard. You can’t really tell that much difference.
4. Conductive Copper BB’s. I used 1/16″ diameter copper balls I found on a website called McMaster-Carr. You can really use anything that is conductive. Aluminum would work well too.
5. Pen cap or something you can use to contain your conductive material and support the wires – 4 wires if you used RGB LEDs or 2 wires if you choose to use the single color ones.
6. Electrical tape, glue, zip ties – you’ll use this to secure the wires and tape everything together, as well as attach it all to the tongue of the shoe.
7. Spade connector or switch inline with the positive lead so you can cut the power when not using it.