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How to make a simple backyard foundry for less than $20, for melting pop cans, and casting aluminum.
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Pop Can Metal Melting: https://goo.gl/pTP1uG
Secret Safe: https://goo.gl/r0K9jB
Acrylic Fire Piston: https://goo.gl/BSl8QT
Bottle Rockets: http://bit.ly/HomebrewBottleRockets
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Charcoal foundries can reach temperatures in excess of 1,000ºC, which is well above the melting point of hobbyists. This project should only be attempted with adequate knowledge and training, proper protective safety gear, and in a fire resistant area with adequate ventilation. The sparks flying from the foundry can ignite fires, and the fumes from burning dross can be toxic. Use caution and common sense. Use of this video content is at your own risk.
Music By: Scott & Brendo (“Feel It” – Instrumental) http://bit.ly/ScottBrendoiTunes
Project Inspired By:
This foundry is an original design, which comes after months of experimenting, and over 10 different prototypes. The functionality is founded on ideas I collected while searching the internet for different furnace designs.
Project History & More Info:
For this project I experimented with 10 different prototypes, to develop a reusable backyard foundry that melts aluminum soda cans easily and safely. I tested different refractory recipes, different containers, different setting for blowing air, and different types of makeshift crucibles.
I tried various ratios of portland cement, sand, perlite, plaster of paris, water, and even kitty litter. For containers, I experimented with clay pots, plastic buckets, no container, cinderblocks, and a galvanized steel pail.
I ended up favoring the galvanized steel pail, and a mix of 50% plaster of paris, and 50% play sand, by volume, which was inspired by a video by NightHawkInLight “How to Make a Soup Can Forge” http://bit.ly/IBSoupCanForge
Depending on where you get, or find, your materials the cost can range anywhere from $5-$25 per unit. With the materials I used, I was able to make 2 units for under $40 ($20 each). Even on the high end, this is probably one of the cheapest, reliable, backyard foundries that can be made.
I used mine to melt soda cans, and extract the aluminum for future metal casting projects. All the soda cans came from a local recycling depot. I bought back 30 lbs from the depot to avoid having to drink gallons and gallons of soda. I stored the ingots in various forms, which you can see in the video”Melting Cans With The Mini Metal Foundry” https://goo.gl/pTP1uG
The technique for making the sword in that video, and the gun in this video is called “Lost Foam Casting” and will be demonstrated in a future project video.
Watch the full episode: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y_6Bj6nmo-o
This Old House plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey shows how to replace a badly corroded cast-iron flange. (See the shopping list, tools, and steps below.)
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Shopping List for How to Repair a Cast-Iron Toilet Flange:
- Plastic expansion closet flange, to replace old cast-iron flange
- Large sponge and bucket, for sopping up water
- Four wood blocks, used as spacers beneath the new closet flange
- Rubber gasket, for sealing toilet to flange
Tools for How to Repair a Cast-Iron Toilet Flange:
- Wrench, to loosen and tighten hex nuts
- Close-quarter hacksaw, for sawing through bolts
- Stiff-blade putty knife, to scrape off wax gasket
- Hammer and cold chisel, for chopping out the cast-iron flange
- Pliers, to pull out the old flange
- Wet/dry vacuum, for collecting dust and debris
- Ratcheting hex-key wrench, to tighten the flange screws
Steps for How to Repair a Cast-Iron Toilet Flange:
1. Close the shut-off valve behind the toilet to stop the flow of water.
2. Remove the lid from the toilet tank. Flush the toilet and hold down the flush lever to drain as much water from the tank as possible.
3. Reach inside the tank and unscrew the ball float.
4. Use a large sponge to sop up the remaining water from inside the tank and from the bottom of the toilet bowl.
5. Remove the nuts from the closet bolts on each side of the toilet base. If the nuts are rusted in place, cut through the bolts with a close-quarter hacksaw.
6. Unscrew the water-supply line from the underside of the toilet tank.
7. Rock the toilet back and forth to break its wax seal with the drainpipe. Lift the toilet and carry it out of the room.
8. Use a stiff-blade putty knife to scrape away the wax gasket from the closet flange.
9. Unscrew and remove any extension rings to expose the cast-iron closet flange.
10. If the flange is badly corroded, use a hammer and cold chisel to chop out the flange.
11. Pull the loosened flange out of the cast-iron drainpipe with a pair of pliers.
12. Vacuum up all dust and debris from around the drainpipe and bathroom floor.
13. Set four wood blocks around the drainpipe to hold the new closet flange at the correct height.
14. Install a plastic expansion closet flange into the cast-iron drainpipe.
15. Use a ratcheting hex-key wrench to tighten the four screws on the inside of the flange until the flange is tightly wedged into the drainpipe.
16. Slide two new closet bolts into the slotted keyways in the flange.
17. Place a rubber toilet gasket over the bolts and onto the closet flange.
18. Set the toilet back into place on top of the gasket.
19. Onto each closet bolt put a plastic washer, stainless-steel washer, and hex nut. Alternately tighten each nut with a wrench, being careful not to crack the toilet base.
20. Trim off the excess bolt with the hacksaw.
21. Snap on the plastic caps to conceal the closet bolts.
22. Reattach the water-supply line to the underside of the toilet tank.
23. Screw the ball float back onto the flush valve.
24. Open the shut-off valve and flush the toilet to ensure it’s working properly.
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