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Went through some old footage and found I had recorded video of building a custom slot ported subwoofer box enclosure, but I had never edited it! In this video I build a subwoofer enclosure and show you step by step how it is done. The subwoofer box is built using one of my 1NSW style box designs and features some custom template work on the front using a router just to give it an extra special touch.
★ Box Designs: http://goo.gl/sv1wam ★
★ Materials and Tools from this video: http://goo.gl/ttRBR1 ★
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Here at Car Audio Fabrication I teach you how to Master Car Audio in an effort to Design, Build, and Install your ideal car audio system. Whether you are a hardcore basshead or a HiFi focused audiophile I would love to have you subscribe and join our community!
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–FULL VIDEO SERIES–
Simple Door Pods [VIDEO] Series: http://goo.gl/jPpKGB
Custom Subwoofer Box [VIDEO] Series: http://goo.gl/bzZPwl
Underseat Fiberglass Sub Box [VIDEO] Series: http://goo.gl/OBbUwH
Fiberglass Door Pods [VIDEO] Series: http://goo.gl/oAdrx1
Switch It Up – YouTube Audio Library
Otis McMusic – YouTube Audio Library
Crystals – YouTube Audio Library
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0
Car Audio Fabrication – Master Car Audio – Design, Build, Install
- NOTE – SKIP THE GAP IN THIS VIDEO and SEE GOOD UPDATE NOTES BELOW: At minute 4:54 There’s a big blank gap accidentally left in, after the spoken explanation.
- To see me do the work, skip forward to minute 6:36.
- The dbl glazing’s been good since March 2011 (it’s now June 2014), including cold wet weather when in a steamy kitchen there was very little condensation between the glass sheets, just a bit on the inside like a normal glass window in room warmed up. Between the glass sheets, the condensation simply cleared away – nothing for mildew to grow on, so none yet, after 3 years.
- It’s EXCELLENT soundproofing too, especially if you use 4mm, or even 6mm glass (preferably salvaged/recycled).
- DON’T reuse old 3m glass – it’s usually warped over the years, fragile, and won’t block noise well. Use 4mm to 6mm, used glass if you can, or new.
- If 2nd-hand, beware ‘tempered’ glass – often detectable by a tell-tale brand name stamped somewhere it, but not always. You can’t cut it – it shatters like car windscreen. If unsure, you’re gambling, so haggle the price down and be ready to lose it, OR try to cut a sample. It’ll either star-shatter to smithereens, or break neatly along a line – and you can buy it.
- ‘Changed my mind about cutting the glass myself – phone a glass shop, only a few dollars, MUCH easier, less risk of loss of glass.
- HOW MUCH DO YOU $AVE?: The ‘Ecowho’ website seems to say single glaze glass loses 240watts/sq metre, but a double-glazed one loses only 25watts/sq metre. ‘Seems tight curtains + pelmet can roughly equal double-glazing. They say doing both only cuts another 5 watts/sq m. But either therefore might save about NZ$90/month of power (US$80), assuming the month has av. 5 hrs/day of heating whole house and the inside/outside is 10 degrees Celsius different. Or say about $10 a room per cold month.
- NEW: I’m now using white foam instead of blue, and full (wooden, not plastic) beading round windows rather than small clamps – looks tidier. AND now using a clear sealant to airtight round the glass before putting on the clamping strip.
- NEW: For easier perimeter beading, use off-the-shelf wooden 12mx12mm quarter-round strip you can get from hdware shop for $1.36/M+paint. It’s better than the HDPE plastic ($1.70/M and a hassle to precisely cut.). Plane off about 3mm off one side of the wood strip, or cut the foam strip smaller – maybe 15mm wide so it sits flush with the frame, & then paint the strip with primer & paint, and install with screws.) If that sounds complicated, the main point is, ‘just use wood, you’ll figure it out.
- Generally I’ve found it’s best to do ‘mass production’ of all the foam strip cutting, and the the glass cutting of a room, and all the strip creation, otherwise you tediously stop-and-start a lot.
- I’m still much warmer than with single glazing. I’ve noticed a 10 degree C diff in temp inside/outside in my bedroom these days, with no heater, just me and my laptop generating heat.
- Tell others about this. Globally, petroleum and energy seem likely to get very dear soon. (Click the Like or Share button so other people can be warm like me and you.)
- NEW 16Aug2012: Noticed this morning that the self-double-glazing seems effective. I have a big thermometer visible outside my bedroom window showing ten degrees C, and another just near it inside the room showing fifteen degrees C. (No heater in the room, just me in the (insulated) room all night with curtains also drawn).
- NEW: July2013 Still great. I’m now double-glazing my sunroom..
- I’m using 6mm glass got 2nd hand from recycler, and cut by glazier near here.
- For perimeter strip, using waste offcuts off 100x50mm lumber, from local lumber yard’s dumpster. They’re basically thin slats about a metre long.
- Used my thicknesser to plane them smooth & uniform, then circ saw too make strips 500x5mm enough to overlap the second plate of glass. Pre-painted them (saves most of the tedious edge painting, you just have to do a minor touch up.)
- Will next carefully tack them to press the glass in place (to protect glass from any accidental impact of hammer while using the hammer, I’ll use a padding square against the glass).
- NEW: SEPT 2013 Those windows are now done – it was easy that way. The original first ones are still fine, no probs
- Accident/mistake fix: When I cut several windows 1 cm too narrow, I just put the strip of padding foam flat against the window instead of flat against the outer glass, which gave a wider bed for the glass. ‘Didn’t have to throw away the glass, ‘looks fine, ‘the air gap is about 1cm rather than the usual ideal 2cm.
- June 2014, still working fine, very happy. The very good Dell PC and 23″ screen I’m using to write this was probably more-than paid for by the savings from doing it myself. You’ll find it much easier to do than I did, because you won’t have all the adventurous trial-and-error I had. = )