China Glass Rubber Sealing Strip ManufacturersChina Rubber Molding FactoryChina Self Adhesive Rubber Seal FactoryData Strip For Shelf Channel China ManufacturerWholesale Flexible Trim Edge With Adhesive Tape FactoryWire/Electrical Trunking Factory
http://clublexus.com/how-tos is the leading Lexus IS, RX, ES, and GS resource for technical DIY guides. Changing the side mirrors’ light bulbs to LED can give the Lexus a unique look. For the full step-by-step article, please visit http://www.clublexus.com/how-tos/a/lexus-how-to-install-jdm-led-turn-signal-mirrors-365647
This job takes 3 hours and costs $400. Taking your Lexus to a professional will cost $500+.
This job requires a 10mm socket with 3″ extension, a Phillips head and flat head screwdrivers, electrical tape, wire strippers, a metal coat hanger, and new LED side mirrors.
Step 1 – Remove the side mirrors and four bolts
Turn the side mirrors as far outward as they will go, then point the glass mirror up as far as possible. Grab the bottom of the mirror and pull up to remove it. Remove the four bolts with a Phillips screwdriver. Separate the front from the rear side mirror covers by prying them apart.
Step 2 – Remove the door panels and window trim unit
Start on the passenger side. Pop out the plastic piece that sits behind the door handle with a flat head screwdriver. Now you’ll have access to a screw that is behind the handle; remove it with the Phillips head screwdriver. Grab the window trim control unit at the bottom and pull upward.
Step 3 – Disconnect the two wiring harnesses
Be careful to not pull too hard when removing the window trim control unit. Disconnect these two harnesses by pulling them apart.
When you reconnect these wires, operate your window to the up/down positions for a few cycles in order to get the auto up/down feature to work again.
Step 4 – Remove the single bolt inside the window control panel
You’ll see a 10mm bolt holding this controller to the door frame. Remove it using a screwdriver or a ratchet with a 3-inch extension and 10mm socket.
Step 5 – Remove the door panel
Disconnect the plastic door tabs and lift up from the outside edge of the door panel to disengage the rest of it. You’ll see some wires tethering it to the door frame; do not disconnect these.
Step 6 – Remove the side mirror
Remove the white piece of plastic that is behind the door panel on the frame under the mirror. Three nuts that hold the side mirror onto the door. Remove them, and the mirror can come off.
Step 7 – Use a coat hanger to thread the wires
From the base of the mirror, use a wire coat hanger to poke it up and out to the opening of the other end. Use electrical tape to secure the wires from the LED cover to the end of the hanger and pull it through. Pull the wires through the door frame and out the hole that you created.
Step 8 – Remount the side mirror
Remount the side mirror back onto the door. Again, be careful to not drop the nuts down into the door frame.
Step 9 – Feed wires through the door and into the chassis
Feed the wires through the door frame and into the vehicle along the same path the existing wires take. Remove the rubber sleeve that protects the other wires that run between the door and front fender. Remove the tape and wire from the hanger. Run the hanger up from the hole in the bottom fender through the hole in the front edge of the door and out the opening you created. Run the new wire along with the existing wires through the rubber hose. Poke the hanger through the rubber hose from the left side, tape the wire to the hanger, and pull it all the way through. Remove the tape and leave the wires hanging here.
Step 10 – Pull wires into the car
Pop the plastic cover from underneath the glove box off. Reach in and find a hole in the fender well which should be just under the carpet line. Poke the hanger through that hole back to where you left the wires hanging. Tape the wire to the hanger and pull it all the way through the fender and to the inside. Replace the rubber hosing, wrapping it around all the wires.
Step 11 – Pull wires behind the stereo
Find the hole in the front of the driver’s side foot-well that is near the gas pedal. Feed the hanger through this hole and snake it to the passenger side to the hole where you left the wire hanging. Tape the wire back to the hanger and pull it through to the other side. Tuck the wire under the carpeting.
Step 12 – Repeat the previous steps
Repeat steps 1-11 for the other door panel and mirror wiring so that both side mirror wires are behind the gas pedal.
Pop open the driver’s door sill by pulling up on it. Inside, you’ll find a medium-sized light green and a medium-sized red wire. The green is for the driver’s side turn signal and the red is for the passenger side. For the driver’s side mirror cover wiring, the non-ground wire will need to be spliced into the green; do the same for the passenger side mirror. Test the turn signals to make sure your wires aren’t crossed. If the mirror covers are blinking correctly, bundle all the wires up, tape them, and re-connect the driver’s sill plate. Put everything back together.
http://www.sailrite.com/Binder-1-Swing-Bracket These high quality Japanese binder attachments make dressing up and finishing off the edges of canopies, dodgers, window covers, zipper flaps, awnings, enclosures, and biminis faster and much easier. Binders automatically guide binding tape into place and fold it over the edge of the fabric while sewing it in place.